Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and tourists alike celebrating its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Recently, UNESCO recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a prestigious roster of world cities and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it becomes part of a global network of cities metropolises across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "is a testament to its profound gastronomic legacy and lively food ecosystem," according to a official from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this venerable city is no surprise to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this adored, lively, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is finally in the global gaze for what has always characterized its essence: an profound love for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing conversation from morning until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and raised to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of food experimentation, blending Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. The story goes that the mutton galouti was invented to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only highlights seasonal produce but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on countless corners, there are little shops and kiosks – little-known treasures that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a simple joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and demanding. The cook beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however express concern that their children do not want to master the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will inspire more people around the world to explore these narratives and visit the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
